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Swimming with Whale Sharks: Australia’s Ningaloo Reef
08/19/2008 - By Staff Writer Looking for your next big adventure? Try Australia's well-kept Ningaloo Reef, a 240 kilometer long playground for eager scuba divers.
Considered by many to be the best reef for scuba diving in the world, the 240 kilometer long Ningaloo Reef is sometimes called “Australia’s other Great Barrier Reef”.
Unlike the Great Barrier Reef, however, Ningaloo is what’s considered a fringing reef. This means that it lies quite close to shore—no more than four kilometers at the most and in some spots, less than 100 meters. Despite its accessibility to shore, Ningaloo has remained largely pristine, protected by the geographical isolation. This area near the small towns of Exmouth and Coral Reef is 1200 kilometers north of Perth.
Most divers come for the whale shark season in March and April to swim amongside the world’s largest fish. Growing up to fifty feet long, the whale sharks are calm and complacent among divers. These gentle giants eat plankton, and find a rich buffet of them along the reef. There are more than just whale sharks here, of course. Reef sharks, lionfish, and enormous stingrays abound. Spotted eagle manta rays, their mouths agape to gather plankton, are a common sight at any time of year. In July and August, up to 5,000 manta rays migrate through the reef. Barracuda, cod, and frogfish are also common at Ningaloo. Dugongs, sea turtles, and humpback whales also visit the area.
You might be surprised by a venomous olive sea-snake, identifiable by its length (about six feet) and its yellow khaki body and black head. Luckily, the marine life here seems mildly curious, rather than fearful. There are over 500 species of fish, 300 species of coral, and 600 species of mollusks in this rich, concentrated ecosystem.
The reef is located just north of the Tropic of Capricorn. The average winter temperature is 25 degrees C, while the summer average is 35. The water is colder here than you might expect—check with local dive shops for wetsuit recommendations before you go. The area has no wet season, so humidity is always tolerably low. The nearest airport is 100 kilometers north of Coral Bay, at Learmonth. A shuttle bus is available from the airport.
The Ningaloo Reef Retreat, an eco-tourism spot thirty miles off the beaten path, is an ideal spot from which to base dives. Just a hundred feet from the water, the retreat caters especially to divers. They also offer free use of their kayaks for the off hours. The beaches of the reef are an important breeding ground for loggerhead, hawksbill, and green turtles—the shore is an ecosystem of its own worth some exploration during a trip. For accommodations in town, try either Exmouth or Coral Bay. Both towns have several hotels and hostels. Some of the nicer hotels in Coral Bay include White House, Coral Bay Lodge, and Bayview Villas. There is a reasonably priced hostel called Ningaloo Club Backpackers for the budget traveler.
In addition to the many features of the reef, there are a few other dives worth your time in this area. The Murion Islands are located two hours north of Exmouth by boat. The waters around these islands have several fascinating swim throughs and channels. One of the many dive shop operators in Exmouth or Coral Bay will happily take you.
Last but not least, you might want to visit this area sooner, while it is healthy, rather than down the road in a dubious future. Local environmentalists worked hard to halt an unsustainably large resort in 2003, but the area is still being stalked by developers. In 2007 a major salt mining venture was proposed for Exmouth gulf, that would have unknown (but certainly not beneficial!) effects on the reef. So enjoy Ningaloo while you can, and see if a visit doesn’t convince you that this incredible reef is worth every effort at preservation.